“If I lose my magic, that means I’ve lost absolutely everything.”
~Kiki
Kiki’s Delivery Service
Day 8: Some place you have been, Part 3
When we first knew we were going to go to Japan, I asked a couple of my friends who had been there to advise me on what we needed to see. One of my derby friends, who is also a major otaku suggested that Andrea and I would have to see the Studio Ghibli Museum.

For those of you who are not familiar with Studio Ghibli, you must go watch/rent/buy “My Neighbor Totoro.” Like, right now. Go on. I’ll wait here until you come back.
I actually kind of blame (thank) Studio Ghibli for my daughter’s obsession with Japan. Which then also means I have to blame (thank) Pixar’s John Lasseter. See, Lasseter has always admired the work of Hayao Miyazaki, the animation director who is a major force in animation in Japan. When Lasseter came to the helm of Pixar, he convinced Disney to release Miyazaki’s work to a greater audience. It was a preview for Kiki’s Delivery Service that appeared at the beginning of one of Andrea’s videos that made us watch it. And then Spirited Away. And Totoro. And Ponyo. And Castle in the Sky. She was enamored. So a stop at the museum was absolutely a necessity.

The movie that started it all for us. Thanks a lot, John Lasseter.
The greatest challenge was that the Studio Ghibli Museum is very popular. So much so that you need to get tickets well in advance. As soon as we had the trip scheduled, I went online and ordered them through the broker here in the US. At the time, I only purchased tickets for Andrea and myself because we knew Jason would be working.
We were scheduled to go on the morning on March 11. As luck would have it, Jason’s show didn’t have a matinee that day, so he was actually available until his call at 5:00. We tried going to the convenience store by the hotel to purchase an additional ticket, but they were sold out. He decided that he would at least go along with us for the ride out there.

Following the signs to the museum
The Ghibli Museum is about an hour outside of Tokyo proper by way of train. Located in Mitaka, it’s fairly easy to get to, it just takes some time and a couple of transfers. We made it to the museum, and when the nice young man was directing us inside, he pointed out that there were three of us and only two tickets. I explained that I had purchased the tickets months prior, and Jason had unexpectedly had a free day so he was just going to wait in the park for us. He asked us to wait while he spoke to a manager. When he returned, he noted that the convenience store a couple of blocks away had a ticket available for the 4 pm admission. If Jason went and purchased that ticket and brought it back, he would change the time for him so we could all go in together.
I wish that I had gotten the young man’s name, because he saved us a great deal of potential fear and heartache that day. If he hadn’t figured out how to get Jason in, there’s a good chance we would have been separated from each other when the quake hit. We owe him a debt of gratitude. I did send a letter with this picture to the folks at the museum and asked them to thank him for us, but I never heard anything back. I wish we could let him know just how much we appreciated his helpfulness, and that it went so far beyond just letting a dad enjoy a museum with his family.
I didn’t get a lot of pictures inside the museum because there were signs indicating that photography wasn’t allowed. But even the explanation of why they don’t allow photographs shows the imagination involved:
The Ghibli Museum is a portal to a storybook world. As the main character in a story, we ask that you experience the Museum space with your own eyes and senses, instead of through a camera’s viewfinder. We ask that you make what you experienced in the Museum the special memory that you take home with you.
I did purchase the guidebook, because it was so magical I did not want to forget it. If you ever have a chance to go to Japan, the one stop I will tell everyone they must see is the Studio Ghibli Museum, especially if you are a Miyazaki fan. I really believe he has the heart of a child, and he fashioned the museum to appeal to children and the child in all of us. From the stained glass windows, to the magic zoetropes, to the full sized Cat Bus (!), it made me cry with joy several times over with its sheer beauty and creativity. Thankfully, although I was not able to take pictures, there’s enough on the interwebs to still allow me to share.

As a sculpture alone, it was pretty amazing. When it became a zoetrope through spinning and adding strobes, it was so beautiful it made me tear up. We know that making me cry is like the proverbial fish in a barrel, but still....
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Full-sized Cat Bus? Yes, please.
One of the cool things about the museum is they have a theatre that shows shorts that are created by Miyazaki solely for the museum. When you enter, you receive an animation cell that serves as your ticket to the theatre. They stamp it when you see the show, and these films can only be seen at the museum. The film showing the day we went was Mr. Dough and the Egg Princess. At first I worried that we wouldn’t get it because it was in Japanese, but there was little dialogue to the piece anyway. The story was relayed primarily through images rather than words, so it wasn’t an issue at all.

The theatre inside Ghibli
The roof of the museum is home to another life size replica, this time of one of the robot soldiers from Castle in the Sky. Photography was allowed there, and we were able to get a family portrait with him. There was also a garden and a rune stone that made the whole place seem otherworldly. From the roof you could look down at the candy colored building below.

This would have been our Christmas card photo. If we were, you know, actually organized enough to do that sort of thing.
One of my other favorite things in the museum didn’t become my favorite until after we had left and I was reading the book that gave more information and included an English translation. It detailed a number of the permanent exhibits, including one that explores the creative process that is used to develop the movies. In addition to having a room that contained books of the actual storyboards for each film, they replicated the workshop where the animators and writers created their work. In the exhibit, I remember noticing these odd little green creatures. They looked like they were made of stone and they were hidden among the stacks of papers, sitting beneath chairs, and cowering in corners. I wasn’t sure what they were until I read the guidebook, which explained that they were the physical manifestation of writer’s block.
Who is the mysterious Ghibli-Blee? A creature that appears in Studio Ghibli. Usually cannot be seen. They are attracted to the cold sweat of those whose work is not making progress. When they get on your shoulders, you are assaulted by severe headaches, stiff shoulders, backaches, and a heavy sense of gloom.
If you’ve ever had a case of writer’s block, you can relate. Iwas amazed at the accuracy of the description. To see it in physical form was reassuring in some ways, because it made you realize that even amazingly talented artists still struggle with the green goblins. Which gives hope to a shlub like me.
We could have spent the whole day there, but when Jason needed to leave to get back for his work call we decided to go as well. Lucky for us, because had we not left when we did, tomorrow’s post would have ended much differently.
Despite the way the day ended, I will never forget the feelings that the morning brought out in me. The sense of wonder, the belief in magic and mystery, and a shared love for the art of a master that transcended cultural boundaries and language barriers. Have you ever found yourself experiencing something magical that took you by surprise? Allow yourself to see the world with childlike wonder, and see how it brings you closer to a oneness with yourself and those around you. Too often we allow our grown-up selves to lose sight of the wonder and magic that is around us in the interest of being serious and adult. But Kiki is right. If we lose our magic, we lose everything. Find your magic.















































